Tutima: The timepiece of presidents & patriarcs

October 22, 2016 01:00 PM
When you’re a high-profile individual, even an essential accessory like a wristwatch is something in which you pay extra attention to detail.

When you’re a high-profile individual, even an essential accessory like a wristwatch is something in which you pay extra attention to detail.

Some presidents have indulged in luxury, while others have preferred inexpensive functional wristwatches from the likes of Timex: George W. Bush wore a Timex Easy Reader with both gold and silver crowns, and Bill Clinton wore an early model of the Timex Ironman to his inaugural ball. Barack Obama wore a relatively inexpensive (under $2,000) TAG Heuer 1500 Two-Tone Diver watch while campaigning in 2008.

One watch that comes to mind when you think of luxury is the Tutima Patria. Reserved and elegant, it displays the hours, minutes and seconds — the latter within an unusually large, off-center scaled circle. The connoisseur, however, suspects the remarkable technology hidden behind the hand-finished hands.

The $17,900 Patria doesn’t merely bear the word “Glashütte” on its dial: this watch’s distinctive components and details epitomize the Saxon town’s great watchmaking tradition. Glashütte is a town in Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge, the free state of Saxony, Germany, which was the birthplace of the German watchmaking industry.

The  Patria’s elegance reveals the close relationship between this model and the fine mechanical engineering from Glashütte: Tutima’s Hommage minute repeater. The lines of the celebrated Hommage recur in the Patria’s case, which is 43 millimeters in diameter and crafted from 18 karat rose gold. 

The manually crafted hands are matte-finished along their chamfers and testify to the high standards upheld by the artistic perfection of this exceptional wristwatch. A pane of sapphire crystal on the back of the Patria’s case reveals a finely gold-plated movement with a traditional Glashütte three-quarter plate. A uniformly banded pattern adorns this plate’s spacious plane and accentuates the three ruby jewels in their screwed gold settings. Each of the two steel crown wheels is finished with a sunburst pattern and has a special ratchet with steel springs polished on tinplate. 

The beveled edges of the skeletonized balance cock are painstakingly hand-polished to a high gloss. In accord with time-honored Glashütte tradition, the heads of all screws are polished (rather than simply blued, for example). 

An accurately drawn bevel runs along each screw’s slit and around the periphery of its head. The balance, which bears 14 weight screws and four regulating screws, oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 A/h (semi-oscillations per hour) and is paired with a Breguet hairspring, which culminates in a manually crafted upward curve. A stop-seconds function facilitates to-the-second setting of the watch’s hands. The indicator for the second time zone is unobtrusively positioned within the calibrated field of the seconds subdial. 

Tutima USA Inc. is the exclusive North American distributor for Tutima Glashütte since 1997. Founded in Germany in 1927, Tutima continues its rich tradition of creating exceptional instrument watches. 

As for the styles of the current presidential candidates, Democratic candidate and former secretary of State Hillary Clinton has been known to favor Chanel’s chunky J12 white ceramic timepiece ($6,000 and up), according to the dailybeast.com. Republican contender Donald Trump has been spotted out and about in a yellow gold dress watch that watch experts have attributed as either a vintage Rolex Cellini ($10,000) or a Patek Phillippe Ellipse ($16,000 and up).

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